Rock the Casbah; or, Africa for a Day

To visit Morocco 

is still like turning the pages 

of some illuminated Persian manuscript 

all embroidered with bright shapes and subtle lines.

— Edith Wharton, "In Morocco" 1927

Tangier is one of the few places left in the world where, 

so long as you don't proceed to robbery, violence, 

or some form of crude, antisocial behavior, 

you can do exactly what you want.

-William S. Burroughs, "International Zone," 1955

The Shareef don't like it
Rockin' the Casbah
Rock the Casbah.
-"Rock the Casbah," The Clash (1982)

So one day in August, we went to Africa. . . 

We drove to Tarifa, Spain, about 90 minutes from our home, and then boarded a high speed ferry to Tangier, Morocco. After an approximately hour-long ferry ride across the Strait of Gibraltar, we found ourselves in literally a whole other world: Northern Africa. 

Part of my inspiration for world travel is because of the children's book author and illustrator Richard Scarry. As a child, I loved his book Busy, Busy World; in fact, it was probably my favorite picture book of all. Colorful illustrations of markets, bakeries, and city squares from all over the world made me want to see everything in real life. Instead of people, animals act out everyday life. Many, many years later, when finally traveling in France, I half-expected to see someone riding a bicycle with a baguette in a basket, per his illustrations. I still remember pictures of animals wearing traditional djellabas (long robe-like dresses) and fez (hats) in Northern Africa. I read that Richard Scarry spent many holidays in Morocco, thus his inspiration. 

Richard Scarry made me want to see the world. Paul Bowles made me want to see Morocco. 

His novel The Sheltering Sky is about a restless American couple wandering through life. His descriptions of the busy, dirty, hectic streets and markets in Morocco, where people from many nationalities and cultures would meet, intrigued me.

My travel companion was my oldest son, who spent a week in Tangier his first year of college.  We arrived late one hot morning and decided to spend the day in the Medina, the meandering old town full of markets, shops, cafes. We wandered through the labyrinth of vibrantly colored buildings until we got to the Kasbah on top.

As my son pointed out, if you get lost, keep going downhill and you'll eventually find your way out. Keep going uphill and you'll find the Kasbah, with its magnificent view of the city.

He took a year of Arabic last year in college, and as any language student will tell you, a real-life opportunity to use what you've learned (before you feel you are forgetting it) is also invaluable.

We didn't use a guide and only spent the day in the Medina, which was absolutely perfect for a day trip. I was not interested in riding a camel or going into Hercules cave, and really just wanted to spend a day in a cafe, drinking mint tea and taking in the incredible sights, sounds, and smells that is Tangier.

 

Tangier is an all-out assault on the senses.

The sounds:
There's the Adhan, the wailing, warbling call to prayer throughout the day. Not one but two calls went out at the same time. It was hypnotic and discombobulating at the same time, since they were not in sync.
You hear the following languages spoken effortlessly by the locals: French, Arabic, Spanish, English, Berber. If you don't respond in one, don't worry--they will keep trying until they get a sign of recognition from you. It makes you realize that as Americans, we really are deficient in the language area.
Men stand in front of their stalls and stores asking you to come in for tea or to look at a rug. Over music everywhere, you hear them tsk or call out to you. My son taught me to say "no thank you" in Arabic, which works wonders. I was told, "Bless you, my sister" more than once and it put a smile on my face.

The smells:
What can I say. . . Tangier is rather pungent at times. There are the spices. Stalls full of amazing smells. There are the stalls with fishmongers. . . the smells are not so amazing. Mint tea and strong coffee permeate the air. Poufs, purses, and anything else leather with the heavy, overwhelming smell of fresh leather. I've read that much of it is camel leather and not to get it wet, since it will smell even worse. And there is the ever-present stench of hashish everywhere you turn.

The sights: 
Brightly colored doors, walls, and even streets at every turn.
Beautiful tiles--you really see the African influence the Moors brought with their beautiful tiles in Spain.
There are tiny trucks wizzing through the souk with 2-3 men on back, ridiculously carrying heavy furniture that was bigger than the truck.
Brightly colored head scarfs, tiles, pottery, and rugs---stores full of the most beautiful rugs you can imagine.
Cats are everywhere. While sitting in a cafe, they will jump in your lap. They are feral but tame, well feed by the stall vendors who also make sure to dodge them while quickly weaving in and out of the Medina on their scooters and trucks.
And the Berbers with their brightly colored hats sitting on quilts at the edge of the market, selling fruits and vegetables.


My favorite two sights:
a beauty shop with the entrance blocked with thick curtains---despite the Westerners abounding, it's still a Muslim country and culture dictates that Muslim women do not show their hair in public
and 
a man walking a sheep. On a leash. After the fact, we realized it was probably going to slaughter, but still. . . he was casually walking through the park like walking a sheep on a leash is a normal, everyday thing. I still laugh thinking about it.

We had a couscous and tagine, lots of tea, and I did manage to come home with one red pouf. I loved strolling through the crowded, dirty, loud, smelly streets and imagining Tennessee Williams, Henri Matisse, Allen Ginsberg, the Rolling Stones, Paul Bowles, and all the other artists who made Tangier home for a few weeks or several decades, sitting in cafes, drinking coffee or tea, gossiping or gathering information and inspiration. I already have in mind what I want to find next time I'm in Tangier, and can't wait to take another day trip to Africa.